The White Wine That Nearly Vanished: Borgogno's Timorasso Derthona 2023
In the 1980s, only one hectare of Timorasso vines remained in all of Piedmont. One. A grape variety with roots stretching back to the 14th century-mentioned in medieval texts, cultivated by generations of Italian winemakers, it was on the brink of extinction.
But here's the thing about legacy: sometimes it refuses to die quietly.
Today, that nearly lost variety has been reborn in bottles like the Borgogno Timorasso Derthona DOC 2023, a wine that Wine Enthusiast ranked #18 in their Wine of the Year list. Not bad for a grape that was almost forgotten.
A Grape Reborn in Limestone Hills
Derthona, the ancient Roman name for Tortona, sits in the southeastern corner of Piedmont, where the Colli Tortonesi hills roll toward the Apennines. The soil here tells its own story. Limestone rich marl, the same geological foundation that gives structure to some of the world's greatest whites, combined with cool mountain breezes that preserve acidity even as the grapes ripen under the Italian sun.
It's terroir that demands attention. And Timorasso, with its thick skins and natural tendency toward concentration, responds beautifully.
Borgogno has been around since 1761, one of the oldest names in Barolo brought their traditional, site first philosophy to this variety. They're not trying to reinvent Timorasso. They're letting it speak for itself. Careful pressing, restrained élevage, minimal intervention. The result? A wine that tastes like place.
Pour the 2023 vintage and you'll understand why people call it "the white Barolo." There's lemon peel and pear, yes, but also white flowers and almond skin. A stony, saline edge that builds slowly, turning more honeyed and savory as the wine opens. Medium-bodied but concentrated. Textured in a way that makes you pay attention.
This isn't a wine that shouts. It whispers, and you lean in closer.
If you're someone who typically reaches for red wine because whites feel too light, too simple, too forgettable, this is your gateway. Timorasso has structure. It has aging potential that rivals Nebbiolo. It's a white wine for people who love complexity, who appreciate the slow reveal of flavors, who want something that pairs with food rather than just preceding it.
Ready to taste a piece of rescued heritage? Discover the Borgogno Timorasso Derthona DOC 2023 and experience why this nearly-lost variety is capturing the attention of wine lovers worldwide.
At Your Table: Where Legacy Meets the Present
Here's where Timorasso truly shines: at the table. This isn't a wine for casual sipping (though you certainly could). It's built for food, for conversation, for moments that linger.
Picture grilled sea bass with a squeeze of lemon, the char from the grill meeting the wine's mineral backbone. Or lemon-roasted chicken, the citrus in both the dish and the glass creating a beautiful echo. Fresh chèvre with crusty bread and honey. The wine's saline edge cutting through the richness, its honeyed finish harmonizing with the sweetness.
The 2023 vintage captures everything that makes Derthona special. It's a wine that reflects its year. Concentrated but balanced, with that signature slow building finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. Wine Enthusiast didn't rank it #18 Wine of the Year by accident. They recognized what Borgogno has achieved: a wine that honors tradition while feeling utterly relevant to how we drink today.
And perhaps that's the deeper story here. In an era when we talk endlessly about sustainability and preservation, about protecting what's rare and valuable, Timorasso stands as a living example. This grape variety survived because people believed it mattered. Because winemakers like Borgogno saw potential where others saw only obscurity.
Every bottle is a small act of cultural preservation. A connection to medieval Piedmont, to limestone hills, to the hands that tended these vines when extinction seemed inevitable.
The Borgogno Timorasso Derthona DOC 2023 isn't just a wine. It's a story you can taste—one that begins in the 14th century and continues in your glass tonight. At $69, you're not just buying a bottle. You're participating in a revival, supporting a tradition that refused to disappear.
Some legacies are worth pouring.